- New Motor for my LeBaron. Please see THIS page.
Completed Projects
- MP Long Wheel Stud Install
It really wasn't too bad. Check it out HERE
- Solid Bobble Strut Install
Be sure to ALIGN the strut through bolt hole with the k-member for torquing down the lock nuts. Plus It's probably a good idea to insert the nylon washer on the top of the bracket
- Hood Mounted Gauge
Grab a pecie of steel about 3/4" wide and about 2' long. Figure out where you want the guage to sit first. Then bend the steel to a complete 180 angle. But make it smooth so it can go around the back of the hood without touching. Next install the guage pod on the top portion and test out the look again. You can use duct tape to hold the assembly in place from under the hood. Once your happy you can drill out holes trough the steel and into the hood. Just don't go too far!! Then tap the holes or use self-threading screws. This last part is up to you.
- Dynomax band clamps info
These puppies you REALLY WANT to torque them down to 70 FT/LB!! otherwise they will lossen up with vibration. I use a torque wrench to tighten mine down. No failures! Sometimes you can take a pair of pilers and bend the lip of the pipe to give the band clamp a little somthing to catch on to. I believe a short beed weled to the pipe may help too. The stainless band of the clamp is quite flexible and thin.
- Grainger / McMaster (pressure relief) valve ideas
The ID of the valve (McMaster at least) is 3/16". So I went to the hardware store and picked up a 3/16" OD brass tube (0.014" wall). Then I cut off about an inch, cleaned all surfaces with rubbing alcohol, inserted the tube in the valve and expoxied it together. This method requires no drilling is very quick and 3.2mm or 4.0mm hose fits over the 3/16" OD tube quite nicely. Plus it's easier to remove the vac. hose because it's not a barb.
note: A regular valve maxes out around 18-20psi of boost. You can remove the spring and strech it out and then re-install.
- Shelby Z front sway bar bushings
The Mopar part number for the inner bushings is:
4443428
The Mopar part number for the outter busings is:
4322751
Obviously the inner bushings are a pain to install. What you can do is clean off the bar and all the left over crap from the old bushings and use White Lithium grease to slide the inner bushings into place.
- Intercooler install
Lots of 2.5" OD exhaust pipe, 2.5" ID truck radiator hose from NAPA, and 30 3.25" stainless clamps from Pegasus Racing.
The Spearco I used measures 17.25"x10"x3.5 and with shipping cost me $666.60. Nice number, hey!?
More to come on thisPN: 8581 90 degree 2.5" I.D.
PN: 8011 90 and 45 degree 2.5" I.D.
PN: ???? 90 and 35 degree 2.5" I.D. good for comming right out of the turbo.
- Braided Stainless hose for Turbo oil/coolant Lines
Here is my newest solution. So far everything has cleared. The coolant feed line clears the starter and power steering bracket, but some adjustment may be needed after the starter and brackets are in place. Perhaps I should of made the coolant feed line longer or shorter. Plese use this as a guide line since there are other alternatives on this procedure. YOUR ENGINE MAY BE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT. IF you have not done so already please read Garry McKissic's solution at Turbo Trio Motorsports
Note General Assembly:
1. None of the stock NPT/Tube adapters are used.
2. All the NPT ( pipe ) to AN adapters are Male to Male.Oil Feed Line
First you have one of 2 choices:
1. Do not use the port on the sending hex for the stock oil feed line. Plug it up and use one of the other NPT 1/8" holes
2. Use Aeroquip part #FCM2931 S.A.E 37 degree Male Flare (-4 AN)to 42 degree Inverted flare (1/2-20 brake thread) adapter to use the factory oil feed line port.
Note: I used the TFE brake line because it is pre-made, has the correct length, and has the correct I.D.
(Qty 2) Straight -04 AN to 1/8" NPT Male Adapters
(Qty 1) 24" -04 AN TFE brake line with a 90 degree and Straight hose end.
Assembly: Thread the adapters into the turbo and sending hex. The 90 degree end of the hose connects on the turbo. It should clear the wastegate rod.
Coolant Feed Line
(Qty 1) 45 degree -06 AN to 1/4" NPT Male Elbow Adapter
(Qty 1) 45 degree -06 AN to 3/8" NPT Male Elbow Adapter
(Qty 2) Straight -06 AN Hose Ends
(Qty 1) 12" -06 AN Hose. Cut to your required length. Mine was 10.5"
Assembly: Thread 1/4" NPT adapter into block. Make sure the adapter is parallel with the crank or pointing up slightly so it can clear the power steering bracket. Obviously the 3/8" NPT threads into the turbocharger.
Warrning: Construction of the -6 Aeroquip hose is a complete BITCH. Step #2 is the most difficult ( see below )
Coolant Return Line
Note: I run my return line around the wastegate actuator. You may need 24" or more of hose.
Note: To install the AN to NPT Adapter on the turbo, you will have to remove the impeller housing.
(Qty 1) Straight -08 AN to 3/8" NPT Male Adapter
(Qty 1) 90 degree -08 AN to 3/8" NPT Male Elbow Adapter
(Qty 1) Straight -08 AN Hose End
(Qty 1) 90 degree -08 AN Hose End
(Qty 1) 24" (or more possibly) -08 AN Hose. Cut to required length.
Assembly: Install Straight adapter at the stock location in the head. Connect the straight end of the hose there. See PICTURE. Thread the 90 degree adapter into the turbochager. You will have to remove the impeller housing to do this. Make sure the 90 degree adapter is pointing straight up. Connect the 90 degree end of the hose to the adapter and point it around the wastegate actuator ( parallel with the crank ). See PICTURE.
These are Assembly Instructions for Aeroquip hose from a Pegasus Racing catalog
1
Screw the hacksaw and use a dremel or some other high speed cutting disc / tool.
2
THIS IS THE BITCH OF IT. After cutting the hose you only have 2 or 3 attempts to install the Socket. The -8 hose was easier.
3
4
5
The hose is so hard to push in, it does not push out when threading the nipple.
6
You REALLY have to torque the hell out of the nipple to get 0.031" or smaller. Use lots of tape or the proper AN tools. The Aluminum hose ends are very soft.
7
WHATEVER, The work required to thread in the nipple is many more times the clamping force on ANY of the coolant or oil lines. Oh NO, But the coolant lines may see 16psi of pressure! Again, Whatever, These hoses were designed to handle 1000psi.
Can you tell I didn't have much fun assembling the hoses? LOL Really, the -8 AN hose wasn't that bad, the -6 was wicked.
- Custom 2.5" exhaust
Its not going good. My stock exhaust is 2.25" at the turbo, then it goes to 2.5" with shitty bends, then down to 2" after the cat with mandrel bends, then to 1-7/8" through this cheap ass muffler. Garry McKissick says that the T2 Daytona down pipe (pn: 4427033) is true 2.5" and possibly is mandrel bent. I was thinking for this season to weld my bends just to that 2.25" peice and run straight pipe and mandrel bends for the rest of the exhaust. Its a HACK, but its all I've got time for this year.Well, I decided to cut the down pipe right before the cat. I attached a fabricated 2.5" almost mandrel exhaust that dumps out right before the rear axle. Major improvement in performance! Note the stainless bolts I bent and welded as hangers!
- Methanol/Water Injection.
A windsheild washer pump, a generic overfill bottle, some washer line, an adjustable pressure switch from Gus, a 12v test light, and a 0.024" threaded mig nozzle is all you need. Be sure to install the nozzle before the TB. On my suck through T1, this is easy to do. PLUS, spray pattern doesn't matter because the turbo will atomize the flow. This setup seems to be good for 18 psi. I am not sure if I can go more by using a 0.030" or 0.035" mig contact tip, or some kind of Holley carb jet.
- HKS Turbo Timer.
Red wire to red wire. Green and Blue Timer wires to the Dark blue J2 wire. This makes it work, but the radio, radiator fan, and AC shut off. Some have said that the radiator fan will burn out the Timer. - Older T1 intake intercooler modification.
Right Now I just need to get the intake TIG welded up. However, I do not think there will be enough time this season to install the manifold and intercooler.
Honestly, I don't think I'll finish this project. Waylon Black wblack@Thermalloyusa.com has been working on this project with a local machine shop and has advanced it far beyond what I have done.
